A Tribute to Doug Scott – Erik Weihenmayer

I was sad to learn that Doug Scott died of brain cancer last month. Doug was a world-class alpinist (by far one of the boldest of his day!) and a selfless humanitarian. He is best known for being the first Briton to ascend the challenging South West Face of Mount Everest in 1975, and he was responsible for 40 first ascents throughout Asia and hundreds more around the world.

doug wearing wire-rimmed glasses and a bandana with long brown hair — Doug Scott on Everest 1975.
Credit: Sir Chris Bonington

Doug Scott climbing on Shishanpangma.
Credit: CAN photo collections.

In 1994, Doug founded Community Action Nepal (CAN) in an effort “to give something back to the mountain people who had helped him to achieve his mountaineering goals.” Since that time, CAN has constructed schools, health posts, and Porter Rescue Shelters, coordinated emergency relief in the wake of earthquakes, and executed countless other community development projects aimed to support, improve, and sustain the health, education, and livelihoods of those living in some of the Himalaya’s most remote regions. I even read about how this summer, despite being deeply sick, Doug went of his way to put on his 45-year old blue Everest snowsuit and then climbed a flight of stairs at his home in order to raise funds for CAN’s covid-19 response. What a testament to his character and resolve!

Doug Scott and Clive Rowland crawling down the Ogre, 1977.
Credit: Sir Chris Bonington and CAN photo collections.

Doug on the summit of Everest, 1975 wearing his iconic blue snowsuit.
Credit: Sir Chris Bonington.

Though I wasn’t personally close with Doug, I was certainly influenced by him, and now I’m especially grateful that I at least got to shake his hand and talk to him a bit when we met at the Banff Mountain Film Festival in 2018. I remember I left knowing I had met a legend — a truly special person with a lot of energy and a big BIG heart.

Doug Scott and Trish Scott opening a school at Bharabise, Nepal, 2018.
Credit: CAN photo collections.

Today, Doug’s legacy lives on through the lore and charity he left behind. I encourage you to check out this beautiful tribute from Community Action Nepal: https://www.canepal.org.uk/tribute, and of course, for anyone interested, to pick up one of the many books Doug authored or coauthored, including Big Wall Climbing (1974), Himalayan Climber (1994), Shisha Pangma (1999), Up and About (2015), or The Ogre (2017).

Thank you to Community Action Nepal for sharing these from their collections.