In preparation for Ama Dablam, my good friend, Timmy O’Neill, came out to Colorado so we could work on our fitness and train together. Timmy has an impressive climbing resume including having climbed three Grade VI routes in 24-hours: the Northwest Face of Half Dome, South Face of Mt. Watkins, and the Nose on El Capitan – all in Yosemite. He’s got lots of first ascents and crazy fun antics around the world. I like to joke that when we’re climbing together, it’s one of the fastest guys in the world with one of the slowest; we meet in the middle!
Timmy is known as a wild man, but when you get to know him, you quickly realize he’s smart, clear headed, a great planner, and very safety-conscious. He’s been an all around loyal friend who I trust with my life. When you hang out with him you can sit back and laugh while he quips jokes and provides witty insights. He also reads a book a week, so we pass the mountain hours with conversations rolling from philosophy and religion, to biology and psychology.
Timmy Dancing on our climb together.
Timmy and I had a week together, so we started in Devils’ head, a beautiful, jagged ridge-line of granite routes – just Southwest of Denver. Next, we met up with our other Ama Dablam team member, Eric Alexander, and climbed Royal Flush, a cool 8 pitch route up in Frisco – right off the bike path. On our third day we headed out to climb Yellow Spur in Eldorado Canyon with a new friend, Wade Morris. Wade led most pitches while Timmy climbed just above me, giving me beta on the secret holds to grab and the right body positions.
We wrapped up the week at Hallett Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. It’s a very prominent mountain with tons of climbs. The most famous is a 1,000 foot climb called Culp-Bossier. We were joined by Kevin Capps, a local who owns his own climbing guide company, Denver Mountain Guiding. The rock climb itself was ironically the easiest part of our 12-hour day. the descent is a steep fourth class gulley with death falls – kind-of a blind guy’s worst nightmare. Also, on the approach, there’s a long boulder field, with complex scrambling and navigating over the holes and gaps. Timmy did an incredible job guiding me through by letting me grab his pack so I could feel how he was stepping. He talked the whole time: “avoid this gap,” “let’s crab walk here,” “slow down – very treacherous,” “super slippery,” “let me spot you here.”
Timmy helping me navigate through the boulders.
The terrain on Ama Dablam will be fraught with pitfalls, and having the right mindset is a huge benefit. Timmy pointed out that you can’t be thinking hours ahead. You just have to think of your next step; that’s all that matters. Making sure your next step is solid – with zero mistakes. It involves intense focus through the pain and wind and convoluted landscape.
After a week with Timmy, I was reminded how lucky I am that he’s joining our team in Nepal. He’s not just a great athlete. He has the mental talents to guide us through the hardships and provide a winning perspective on the journey. I’m looking forward to another expedition together.
